DIY Aquaponics
Aquaponic systems can be designed to virtually any scale. The smallest scale could be something that sits on your kitchen window and grows food. Although our Aerogarden is strictly not aquaponic it does demonstrate the growing of food without soil.
Here we will show you for free how to build your own system. The advice we provide is aimed at the UK and European Aquaponic User but you can find information from around the world and one of the best places is www.diyaquaponics.com. We will demonstrate this using a medium sized system and allow you to alter the size dependant on your needs. As always please feel free to contact us should you need.
It needs to be pointed out right from the start that when you start you will be experimenting. Whist this can be fun, expect to have a system which is not effective immediately. One of the benefits of purchasing a complete system, like the FishPlant System is that it will be ready to function from the start. There is the issue of cost with these complete systems and therefore some may wish to go for the DIY option.
These instructions will show you how to build a flood drain system. There are other types but this is certainly the easiest.
Step 1.
We suggest the you first identify two similar sized plastic tanks as the size and shape of these will depend on your frame. They will need to be in the region of about 50 gallons in size. Be mindful that the plastic is not toxic and nor were any former contents. They need to be dark in colour to reduce build up of algae. They dont necessarity need to be made of plastic but it will make things a lot easier.
One of these tanks will form the Fish Tank and the other the grow bed.
The ratio of the size between tanks is important to ensure the correct balance in the nutrient cycles.
If you have a problem in locating Tanks then you will find some here.
Step 2
You will need to erect a frame onto which your tanks sit. The exact nature of this frame will be dependent on the size and shape of the tanks. It is therefore difficult to be perscriptive with this but essentiall one tank needs to sit higher than the other so that water can flow from one to another. Consider that you will need to have a degree of access to the fish tank for feeding. The diagram below provides an example of how it could look.
Step 3
As you will be creating a flood drain system you will need to create a Bell Syphon to create an automatic drain system. Basically a bell syphon is something that allows water to fill into a container and at a certain point 'flush' the water away. Very similar to a toilet system. The process you will need to create is a flooding and drainging of each tank 4 times every hour (or there abouts). You should be circulating the whole of the volume of water at least every hour.
Bell Syphon
A bell syphon consists of an open vertical standpipe for the water to drain into. Ideally, this pipe should be straight with both ends open. Around it is another pipe with crenellations (holes/slits) for water flow at the bottom and an air tight cap on top that allows the creation of a water vortex once the water reaches the top of the inner standpipe. This outer pipe is called the syphon pipe and sits over the standpipe by use of gravity. Ensure the syphon pipe cap is not sealing off the top open part of the standpipe. It is better to have too tall of a syphon pipe than one that is too short. One bottom crenellation slightly higher than the rest can also act as an air break.
Some people use an alternate air break with a small air hole near the top of the syphon pipe with an air tube that runs down to just above the crenellations of
the syphon pipe. This air tube helps break the syphon once the water level drops back down. This helps conquer syphon pipe size/crenellation problems since
the air tubing creates a horizontal air hole inlet.
Bell syphons can be tricky things to make well. We supply a ready made bell syphon. Failing that this YouTube video may assist.
Step 4.
Now is the time to fit the plumbing to your tanks.
The growbed will need to have a drainage outlet which will connect to the bell syphon. We also advise that you add an overflow outlet in case of a malfunction with the bell syphon.
Cut a hole at the base of the tank and insert the bell syphon. Then connect a quarter inch pipe from the base of the grow bed. This pipe will feed into your fish tank when the system is set up. Ensure you use appropriate plumbing fittings in order that there are no leaks.
Step 5
Place the grow tank onto the frame and then position the fishtank below the grow bed. Ensure that the outlet from the base of the growbed feeds into the fishtank. Also, fit the overflow pipe in place and that too should feed into into the fish tank.
You should be in a position that the Grow Bed tank sits over the FishTank. A pipe feeds from the growbed (base of the Bell Syphon) into the fishtank. Your overflow pipes also need to feed into the fishtank.
Its always a good thing to maximise the oxygen levels in the water so the more the water can be airated when returing into the tank the better so keep this in mind.
Step 6
Add the growbed media to the grow bed. Setup grow beds so the maximum water flood level is at least 25mm (1 inch) below the top of the grow bed media. This helps prevent algae as most algae needs water and light to grow. Your bell syphon will need to be adjusted to the correct height. Your bell syphon will need to fit in a 'case' ( a wide tube of plastic will do) so that it is not distrubed by the media - obviously the water needs to be able to get into this casing to allow the syphon to work.
Step 7
Add the pump into the fishtank and, using a flexible hose connect up so that the pump feeds the grow bed. You will need to esnure that the pump has an ability to pump the volume of water in the fishtank at least once every hour. Also ensure that the pump has sufficent power to lift the water to the hight of the grow bed.
Shade fish tanks to prevent algae growth and to reduce stress to the fish. Fish prefer dark hiding place sand have less stress if they have them. Include at least one object in the water for this event in addition to shading the top. Do not seal off the fish tank as the fish still need oxygenation to happen, whether it occurs from air bubbles, returning falling water, or fish “piping” at the surface of the water
Starting your system
Be patient. Repeat; be patient. Don't expect your system to be running smooth in less than 4 weeks. Get comfortable to testing your water with a water test kit. Good practise is to test your tap water immediately out of the tap and test it again after it has sat a couple days. There might be a change in pH reading levels you need to be aware of. Let this water dechlorinate and evaporate before adding it to your system by letting it sit in another container for a day or so. If your tap water contains chlorines, this will not evaporate so use a chemical neutraliser available here. Put your system together (pipes, water containers, media) and fill it with water. Run the system (pumps and drainage) for a day or two without fish. This step will let you find and repair any leaks and should also be enough time to let chlorine dissipate from the system. It will also let you evaluate if you need to rearrange your system for more optimum plant growth in the sunlight or to give your fish tank more shade (fish like that). Ensure any timers and drainages are functioning and timed properly. Once you are satisfied with the system flow, add any bacteria boost if you have from a local
lake, river, or an established aquarium.
UK Aquaponics in Winter
Aquaponics in winter is usually a time of maintaining rather than production. An aquaponics
system is a system of balance between fish, bacteria and plants and all can only operate within certain temperature ranges. Ensure your overflows do not freeze causing failure.
Air bubbles keep tanks from icing over completely which helps oxygenation flow. There will be more consistent production if your system is kept indoors or with heated water and greenhouse.
Most fish eating habits slow to a crawl and stop once temperatures drop below 10° C (50° F).
Beneficial bacteria do not operate or live at lower temperatures either. Do not feed below this level as the food will not be eaten and will be absorbed into the system that can not process it and will have bad effects.
The above provides you with a basic start. Like we say, there are so many ways to set your system up it is impossible to dictate one structure. We are always ready to help so please contact us if you have any queries on design or product information.
We cannot state strongly enough - please feel free to contact us if you need any further advice.
